The battle over the 710 freeway is heating up in our neighborhood and surrounding areas, with signs popping up all over Highland Park and Glassell Park. The issue: Though tunneling through South Pasadena makes the most sense by nearly all accounts, rich neighborhoods with money to hire attorneys have tried to persuade CalTrans that the tunnel should actually go through other neighborhoods to the East or West (comedically illustrated below). The kicker? CalTrans is actually considering it.
I absolutely understand that Pasadena doesn’t want the 710 tearing up their city, but nobody else wants the mess either. The obvious answer in my mind is scrapping the project altogether. How a state too broke to pay its own bills is planning on financing a giant, underground freeway through existing neighborhoods is completely beyond me. It’s a bad idea being pushed through by legislators with, well, “tunnel vision” for a decades old project that never had legs to begin with.
Our friend Milla has just updated us on when and where the next 710 Coalition meeting will be held:
SATURDAY, AUGUST 29 at 10:30 am
Glassell Park Community/Senior Center
3750 N.Verdugo Rd., Glassell Park 90065
Located behind the Public Storage building beside the community pool.
Hosted by the Land Use Committee of the Glassell Park Improvement Association.
Lots of information about the project is available from Communities Against the 710, and check out the No 710 Tunnel Facebook group or the Stop the 710 group on Yahoo too.
Also see why the Sierra Club opposes the 710 here, and another group’s list of “facts” (without references sited, it’s hard to know for sure) here.
The Pharaoh of Foodies (Gourmand of Gluttons ran a close second), Jonathan Gold, lists LA’s 99 most essential restaurants of the year, and I was pleasantly surprised at our neighborhoods’ representation on the list. Five restaurants in Highland Park and Eagle Rock made the cut, which doesn’t seem like a lot until you consider that the entire San Fernando Valley can only claim two. Casa Bianca, El Huarache Azteca, Good Girl Dinette (new to the list), Larkin’s, and Oinkster make the cut. It was nice to Diep Tran’s new Vietnamese comfort food dinette on the list, but I have to admit I was suprised at Larkin’s presence. (As an incumbent no less!) Maybe it’s time I give soul-food another try. Enjoy Mr. Gold’s reviews below.
Of all the neighborhood pizza parlors touted as the best in L.A., one of them actually has to be the best. The first time you step into Casa Bianca, neon sign glowing “Pizza Pie” in nursery pink and blue, you will know it is the one, whomped with garlic, set with checked tablecloths, thick with families who have been coming here for generations. Sam Martorana, the soul of the family-run restaurant, passed away in 2007 after more than a half-century in the kitchen, but his mandate endures: burnt, chewy, bubbly pizza, dusted with gritty cornmeal and sliced in the odd manner of thin-crusted bar pizza from the south side of Chicago, which is where Martorana learned his trade. The mushrooms are canned, if that sort of thing bothers you, but anybody who orders his pizza topped with anything but homemade sausage or fried eggplant is kind of missing the point. Barack Obama may have gone for the Hawaiian pizza in the years when Casa Bianca was his local, but you can chalk it up to hometown nostalgia. 1650 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 256-9617. Tues.-Thurs., 4 p.m.-mid., Fri.-Sat., 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Beer, wine. Takeout. Street parking. Cash only.
El Huarache Azteca
Highland Park is developing as the local center of chilango cooking, with a half-dozen restaurants specializing in the meats and snacks from the area around Mexico City. El Huarache Azteca was the first, and its huaraches are still the industry standard: concave troughs of fried masa piled high with beans, meat and soured Mexican cream — the cabeza, meat from a roasted cow’s head, is probably the way to go, and the house green salsa is splendid. Weekends are probably the best time to visit the cramped storefront, joining the families guzzling gallons of house-made horchata and watermelon drink at the pol cloth–covered tables or picking up tacos and sopes by the dozen to bring home to their families. Don’t miss the burning-hothuitlacoche quesadillas — fried turnovers stuffed with musky, jet-black corn fungus — made on weekends by a stone-faced woman who mans a fry cart outside the entrance. 5225 York Blvd., Highland Park, (323) 478-9572. Open daily 9 a.m.-10:30 p.m. No alcohol. Street parking. Takeout. Cash only.
Good Girl Dinette
The Good Girl Dinette blog was the spring’s food-nerd obsession: Diep Tran, who used to work at Blue Hen and whose family owns the Pho 79 chain of Vietnamese noodle shops, chronicled the year she spent opening this restaurant in Highland Park. Even the haterati were rooting for her. Tucked into a storefront below an old Masonic lodge, the local Good Girl Dinette is a clean, airy space, filled with earnest couples and young families, serving bubbly soft drinks they make with farmers market fruit (the Meyer lemon is especially good), preparing a menu of Vietnamese-American comfort food that is friendly to vegans.
If your obsessions are centered in South El Monte or Little Saigon, this may not be the place for you. The chicken pho will not remind you of your favorite pho ga. The fried imperial rolls are stodgy; the fresh spring rolls are stuffed with tofu instead of grilled pork and shrimp. But the spicy fries are astonishingly good — topped with the mince of cilantro, fresh chiles and garlic you usually see on Vietnamese-Chinese fried crab or squid, an idea good enough to seem almost inevitable; the biscuit-topped curried-chicken potpie is wonderful. And the clove-spiked beef stew is a perfect amalgam of Vietnamese flavors and Depression-era diner cooking, a blend that seems to be exactly what this neighborhood, and these times, demand. 110 N. Avenue 56, Highland Park, (323) 257-8980, goodgirlfoods.com. Lunch Sat.-Sun., 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Sun., Tues.-Thurs., 6-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 6-11 p.m. Closed Mon. No alcohol. Cash only.
You won’t see Roscoe’s-size portions at Larkin’s, vegans will find more to eat than they’d expect, and there is a bit of mint in the sweet tea. Southern food purists — and there are a lot of them— love to gripe about this modern juke joint, owned by chef Larkin Mackey, a shy, slender man who rarely leaves the kitchen. Every dish on the menu is probably somebody’s best recipe: The tart, creamy potato salad is credited to Aunt Carolyn; the ground beef–intensive chile verde to chef Mackey’s grandpa; the caramel-tasting banana pudding to Mama. But one thing is beyond argument: Mackey’s fried chicken — tender-crusted and juicy, golden and singing with the taste of clean oil — is about as good as it gets in L.A. restaurants. 1496 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 254-0934,larkinsjoint.com. Lunch Wed.-Fri. & Sun., 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Dinner Wed.-Sat., 5:30-9:30 p.m., Sun., 5 p.m. until the food is gone. No alcohol. Limited lot parking. AE, MC, V.
If Oinkster weren’t a diner, it could probably be the premise of a reality show: a fancy-restaurant chef converting an old burger stand to gleaming midcentury-modern loveliness, and serving chefly takes on the burgers, pastrami and chicken already emblazoned on the sign. “Slow fast food,” proclaims the sign outside: smoky Carolina-style pulled-pork sandwiches, chopped salad, and fast food–style Angus-beef hamburgers with sweet house-made ketchup. Andre Guerrero roasts chickens on a creaky rotisserie and smokes his own pastrami. Would you be willing to pay a couple dollars extra to experience artisanal soda pop, purplish Fosselman’s-based ube milkshakes and other fast food with a chefly edge? Guerrero bets you are. With all of the above, of course, it is necessary to have an order of Belgian fries — fried twice to leave them light and hot, their fluffy potato essence encased in a stiff, perfectly golden capsule of crunch. 2005 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 255-OINK, oinkster.com. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun., 11 a.m.-9 p.m. No alcohol. Takeout. AE, D, MC, V.
LA Weekly initially ran the online story omitting a page of restaurants. Eagle Rock’s Auntie Em’s Kitchen raised our neighborhoods’ total to six restaurants in the top 99:
Auntie Em’s, which often feels less like a restaurant than a house party gone slightly out of control, has always had the grooviness thing down: the great music, the meatloaf sandwiches, the maple-syrup containers improvised from old Coke bottles, and the Eastside empathy for chefs and musicians, artists and poets, the people who don’t get around to breakfast until about 3.Terri Wahl, the chef/proprietor, once sang with the Red Ants, one of the better garage-punk bands in town. The place is a haven for the kinds of vegetarians who don’t mind sharing a restaurant with sausage fanciers, and both the enormous chocolate-chip cookies and the red-velvet cupcakes attract long lines of devotees. The food occasionally seems less put together by a cook than grabbed out of the fridge, but Wahl has acquired a serious farmers market habit, the skirt steak on focaccia is delicious, and the cheese board is unexpectedly refined. And while Auntie Em’s is still a grungy breakfast joint, it is a grungy breakfast joint where the omelets are scrambled with all manner of organic squashes, the bacon is thick-cut and applewood smoked, and the puddinglike French toast, garnished with fresh berries, is lightly scented with orange. 4616 Eagle Rock Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 255-0800, auntieemskitchen.com. Mon.-Fri., 8 a.m.-7 p.m., Sat.-Sun., 8 a.m.-4 p.m. No alcohol. Takeout, bakery and catering. Street parking. AE, MC, V.
The Huffington Post features an article about Occidental College’s course, CTSJ (Critical Theory and Social Justice) 180, “Stupidity”. According to the 2008-2009 Occidental course catalog:
Stupidity is neither ignorance nor organicity, but rather, a corollary of knowing and an element of normalcy, the double of intelligence rather than its opposite. It is an artifact of our nature as finite beings and one of the most powerful determinants of human destiny. Stupidity is always the name of the Other, and it is the sign of the feminine. This course in Critical Psychology follows the work of Friedrich Nietzsche, Gilles Deleuze, and most recently, Avital Ronell, in a philosophical examination of those operations and technologies that we conduct in order to render ourselves uncomprehending. Stupidity, which has been evicted from the philosophical premises and dumbed down by psychometric psychology, has returned in the postmodern discourse against Nation, Self, and Truth and makes itself felt in political life ranging from the presidency to Beevis and Butthead. This course examines stupidity.
Oxy has a rich, recent history of making ripples with their course selection. A few years ago, the Young America Foundation listed two Oxy courses on it’s “Dirty Dozen: America’s Most Bizzare and Politically Correct Courses”: “The Phallus” (CTSJ 342) and “Blackness” (which, in a very loaded bit of irony has been supplanted by “Whiteness”, CTSJ 286). There are a few additional ironies in this course description that I’d like to touch on. First, as this asylum.com article correctly points out, the catalogue misspells Beavis (however the article mistakenly suggests an entire major in stupidity). Second, the description makes me feel like the correctly-spelled Butthead in that I don’t understand most of it after the 5th word. Finally, I’m assuming that by “the presidency” they’re not referring to quasi-alumnus Barack Obama. Well, at least I can still be proud that Oxy doesn’t offer a communications major.